Frog by Adam Handling | Restaurant Review - Adventures of a London Kiwi

There is nothing sweeter than a leisurely weekday lunch – it’s one of the joys of running my own business. It’s even more delicious on a Monday with friends – a state of enjoyment which led neatly to this Frog by Adam Handling restaurant review.

Before I begin, just let me utter the words Chicken Butter. Mmmmmmm. This wasn’t our first visit to the Frog, but the first that I wasn’t so distracted by the dishes that I remembered to blog… #badblogger

Tucked away on the edges of Covent Garden, the Frog by Adam Handling is an oasis of flavour pairing.

In these Covid times, we were welcomed in with a delicious, floral hand sanitiser (never thought I’d write those words, a sign of the times, huh?) and taken straight to our seats. Our handbags were settled on their own little pedestals (a touch that always makes me smile) and we cozied into our table – one with a view of the open kitchen already buzzing with the lunch crew.

Our leisurely lunch started with ordering a glass of something cheeky – wine for the other two, a non-alcoholic cocktail for me (because I still had work to do that afternoon) – a photobomb by the Mr Handling himself and the melt-in-your-mouth cheese truffle doughnuts that we simply couldn’t resist whilst perusing the menu.

They’re rich, stuffed with perfectly gooey Lincolnshire Poacher and perfectly more-ish. Oh, did I mention the shredded truffle on crowning these?

Then, came the bread and chicken butter. It’s so deliciously salty and umami that it’s impossible to resist slathering – and the vegetarian version looks just as scrumptious, especially when paired with warm fresh bread. Without getting too wistful, it’s like taking the soul of a roast chicken and dancing around a warm kitchen in winter.

My steak & cavier tartare was presented in this fabulous tin – and every tineful was an absolute delight.

I decided to skip a meaty main, and ordered the vegetarian ‘pie and chips’. I’ve got to be honest, it’s the weakest dish I’ve had at the Frog; it felt fragmented and was missing that *something* spectacular. It was a half serving of some kind of grains in pastry, a swirl of gravy, a quenelle of pumpkin veloute, three bits of green vegetables wrapped, and poppadum style potato chips. What can I say – us Kiwis are fastidious about pies. I took an ordering risk, and it unusually didn’t pay off.

The last time we visited we had the tasting menu, and each dish I tried was divine. I eyed the celeriac, truffle and apple across the table quite enviously.

We were so full (I blame the bread & chicken skin butter, but have absolutely no regrets) that we passed on dessert, but the Frog team had the last laugh as they brough out a selection of petit fours…

…and who can say no to a pot of fresh mint tea (complete with cosy hand knitted by one of the chef’s mums.) The Frog is Adam Handling’s funkiest, most laidback restaurant whilst still being contemporary. Fun fact: the the name expresses the chef’s sink-or-swim attitude.